Brrrr... The
chilly winter morning with a lethal wind cutting through the fog, the stressed
morning sun making a desperate but unsuccessful attempt to rise above the thick
barriers of fog and pregnant clouds. Only the very brave or the very helpless
have ventured out of their blankets onto the
streets. But through the impenetrable dark fog, a little dim light
around the corner presents an unusual glimmer of hope...its a little tea stall
(aka chai ki dukan, chai ki tapri, kitli).
A tea stall around the corner is a common occurrence across any city, town,
village or hamlet in India. Every Indian (except those who are hung up on milk
or those who prefer the exotic coffee) is a tea drinker. Not just tea but the
quintessential Indian masala chai (Chai Tea according to Starbucks whatever
that means) which is a sure shot cure for that unnerving winter chill or warm
summer blues or on a cold rainy evening. Just holding on to the hot
beverage and slowly blowing into the boiling liquid brings the much needed
respite from slumber and torpor. As you bring the hot cuppa to your lips, the
strong fragrant vapors of the piping liquid rejuvenate the system and one short
sip of the liquid brings to life every pore in the body and you feel enveloped
in the warm, loving, almost therapeutic herbal embrace of ginger, cardamom cinnamon,
pepper and cloves.
Chai in India is
nothing short of a religion. Most Indians are used to sipping chai even before
they wake up completely, be it winter or summer. The quintessential chai ki
chuski (tasteful sip) gives the necessary jolt to push out the sleep and pump
up the energy for the day. Every home has a recipe for the drink using
specialized herbs or spices depending on the palate of the family and
resourcefulness of the tea maker.
Indians drink tea
all day long across all seasons. In the Indian context Chai is not just a
drink. A cup of Chai in India (which incidentally sounds so similar to the Hindi word for love (Chah)) has myriad of connotations. It can denote a mother's love, a wife's treat,
budding friendship, building camaraderie, a break from monotony, relaxation and renewal depending on the time of the day and the person with whom it is
shared. Though kids are not allowed to drink tea I started my tea innings at 4
as I hated the smell of milk and so my mother mixed it with tea to get me to
drink it. Needless to say I was hooked and today I proudly consider myself one of
the best masala chai makers and drinkers I know. :-)
With the chai being
so much a part of the Indian way of life I always believed that just like the
“mighty zero” and “the eternal chess” this too was a proud Indian discovery.
But a chance program on the EPIC Channel (The only sensible Hindi Channel on
Indian TV see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iagO0mQlIFM) opened my eyes
to the facts. Here they are.
- Tea was discovered in China 4700 years ago and came to India
much much later brought by none other than the British.
- The first commercial
production of tea in India only began post 1820s. And much like their other
contribution- the railways- Tea too became an indefatigable part of Indian way
of life.
- Thanks to the British, India began to give tough competition to China
in production and export of tea not to mention the millions it made for the
coffers of the British government.
- Even today India is the second largest
producer of tea but thanks to the trillions of cuppas sipped up by its
billions, 70% of India's tea is used at home.
As the chai so the chai wala (Tea shop
owner) occupies a position of importance in the Indian diaspora. A typical chai shop in India comprises of a small table with a stove and a couple of stools to seat the clients. Every chai
wala has a special recipe and flavour and a very loyal clientele .The chaiwala provides specialized service to his loyalists as per their tastes and preferences-whether a kadak mithi (strong and sweet), malai marke (full of cream) or cutting (a
real small portion). In fact he even plays the role of the good listener and agony aunt to the harried tea drinker who pours out his sorrows over sips of the soothing 'potion'. The chaiwala is hence a key source of local undercurrents and gossips and to some extent a thought leader.No surprise then that a former
"chaiwala" now occupies the most important,
powerful and respectable position in the Indian Government . Long live the
Indian Chai !!!!